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  #11  
Old 7th May 2009, 14:51
Member Group
 
sorry, dont think i read your post very thoroughly!

i see what you mean now. Just wondering, when you say consumer unit, is that like a fuse box/RCD? i guess it is, but just want to make sure.
  #12  
Old 7th May 2009, 14:55
Moderator Group
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mctw View Post
sorry, dont think i read your post very thoroughly!

i see what you mean now. Just wondering, when you say consumer unit, is that like a fuse box/RCD? i guess it is, but just want to make sure.
Yep a fusebox with a RCD in it.
One of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/73324/...-Consumer-Unit

Just wire it up as normal, but instead of taking it straight back to the consumer unit, stick a plug on it and plug it into a normal socket with a 13A fuse in it.

Then when the time comes get it wired into the house consumer unit properly.

Are you aware that any permanent (ie not with a plug on it) electrical work you perform must be Part P certified by a competent (ie electrician) since about 3 years ago?

Google Part P if unsure.
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  #13  
Old 7th May 2009, 21:06
Donor Group
 
@phil and server: Yeah I was stupid and not thinking of the fact that you are dealing with 2X's the volts we are. My bad. Looking at both your diagrams, I am sure of only one thing: I don't know what the hell you folks are talking about lol. Apparently when you go to 220 a bunch of things change. Thanks for trying to explain, but I think I'll ask my buddy about it (I've been a Contractor for about 20 years, but not an electrician. I can do simple stuff, but this 220 stuff is above my pay grade lol).
  #14  
Old 8th May 2009, 11:20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba View Post
@phil and server: Yeah I was stupid and not thinking of the fact that you are dealing with 2X's the volts we are. My bad. Looking at both your diagrams, I am sure of only one thing: I don't know what the hell you folks are talking about lol. Apparently when you go to 220 a bunch of things change. Thanks for trying to explain, but I think I'll ask my buddy about it (I've been a Contractor for about 20 years, but not an electrician. I can do simple stuff, but this 220 stuff is above my pay grade lol).
Lol.

I have always thought the American way was far more difficult, because you have 220V into your houses don't you, like two phases or two lives and a neutral.

Then when you want 110V you just tie off between one leg and neutral, but when you want 220V for like driers or ovens, you tie off between the two 110V lanes, to get 220V difference.
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  #15  
Old 8th May 2009, 13:47
Member Group
 
yeah i know about the new legislation, though it hadn't occurred to be in this situation, but as you said, it isnt necessary unless its a permanent, which it wont be for now at least!

Thanks for the info on this guys, hopefully will get this all wired up soon enough.

And by the way, that thing about American power with 220 and 110, sounds decidedly confusing!
  #16  
Old 9th May 2009, 15:24
Donor Group
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by serverguy View Post
Lol.

I have always thought the American way was far more difficult, because you have 220V into your houses don't you, like two phases or two lives and a neutral.

Then when you want 110V you just tie off between one leg and neutral, but when you want 220V for like driers or ovens, you tie off between the two 110V lanes, to get 220V difference.
Yeah, but how many driers and ovens are in a house lol? I would have to agree with you though on the more difficult thing. We are certainly limited on how many outlets, or lights we can have on a circuit. For instance, the dummy that wired this house put the microwave on the same circuit as the kitchen lights. Whenever you turn the microwave on the lights dim momentarily. I'm going to have to use probably 3 circuits to wire my garage while if I understood yours and phils diagrams correctly, I would be able to use 1 if I had 220.

Note: A good bit of my early construction experience was in commercial. In commercial we use 220 also.
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